10 days in COLOMBIA

If your Colombia knowledge goes as far as Narcos and Shakira Shakira then let me give you some fun Facts about this country to get you excited for your 10 day trip!

1. The national sport of Colombia is Tejo, a traditional game that involves throwing a frisbee looking metal disk at a target filled with gunpowder. Sure. 

2. They bloody love their national anthem!… so much so that, by law, it gets played on both Radio and Television at 6am and 6pm everyday

3.. They also LOVE a national holiday. England may have just bagged an extra bank holiday for old mate King Charles Coronation but it’s nothing on Colombias 18 DAYS OF NATIONAL HOLIDAYS! Note that each year is different as it follows the lunar cycle, check this link-
Colombia- public holidays

4. Colombia has an ancient city that predates Machu Picchu by several hundred years known as Ciudad Perdida “the lost city” Built by the indigenous Tairona people more than 1,000 years ago. The only way to reach the site (which sits in the Sierra Nevada mountain range) is by completing the nearly 30-mile round-trip trek. The city was rediscovered in the 1970s and is believed to be 650 years older than the famous ruins of Machu Picchu.

5. Colombia is the world’s third-largest producer of coffee. Strong black coffee is known as Tinto and it’s not unusual to see kids drinking coffee con leche, god help their parents trying to put them down for bedtime! 

6. The national dish of Colombia is Bandeja Paisa, which includes rice, beans, plantain, chorizo, beef, and arepa. Mwahhhh *Chef kiss*

7. Colombia is the world’s largest producer of Emeralds
ooo sureee, It’s always important to buy a little reminder of your holibobs!

8. Colombia Contains a 10% of the Amazon Rainforest. They have taken great precautions to protect it and the indigenous peoples that reside there.

9. Colombia has 102 Different Indigenous Groups. Some were living in Colombia 14,000 Years Ago

10. Bogota is big in the game for Graffiti Art – The city is covered in impressive murals displaying complex social issues, tributes to Colombian heritage, and colourful cartoons.

11. Cocora valley homes the World’s Tallest Palm Trees – named wax palms and can grow up to 200ft tall!  (Cocora Valley is a short ride away from Salento)

12. Colombia has a church 200 meters underground that’s made of salt -casual. Named Salt Cathedral of Zipaquirá.

13: Papa I’m a millionaireeeee:
It’s not often I feel like singing this Kelis tune but buy yourself a couple hundred quids worth of Colombian Pesos and boom you’ve got millions!
20,000 colombian pesos is roughly £3.50.

14: Learn from my fuck ups!
Like a fooooool that I am I didn’t check the government website for random migration forms before getting to the airport. What could be a straight forward quiz about your stay is made super fun by having some options in Spanish. Eg- United Kingdom is under REINO UNIDO. (obviously).
The government website didn’t mention anything about covid however at the airport it was compulsory to show proof of vaccination and also wear a mask which seemed weird considering we went in Feb 2023.

Vaccinations and other adulting buisness.
If you’re wanting to visit Tayrona you may need to show your yellow fever card. This needs to be done 10 days before entering the area that has yellow fever. You can easily book this online at boots or citydoc costing around £70. We did’nt get asked for proof of Vaccination but a friend of ours did- its also a vaccination that lasts your lifetime so always handy to have for future holidays. Colombia is a Zika area, there’s no vaccination for it, but something to think about if you’re planning to get pregnant.

PLAN OF ACTION
My husband and I only had 10 days to visit (including flight time) so decided to hone in on the northern part of Colombia instead of cramming in too much! If we had a few more days, we would’ve added in Salento (with a day trip to Cocora Valley) and the famous Medellin.
Colombia is the size of France and Spain combined so you most likely need to take a few inland flights to get around 🙂

Here is an overview of our route followed by the route I would recommend now that I have done the trip! I will go into more detail later in this post to explain the changes:

Travel day: London-Bogota-Cartagena 
Cartagena (2nights) 
Travel day: Cartagena-santa Marta-Palomino 
Palomino (1 night) 
Tayrona (3 nights)
Minca (1night) 
Minca- Santa Marta- Bogota – London 

Travel day: London-Bogota-Cartagena 
Cartagena (2 nights) 
Travel day: Cartagena- drive -Palomino 
Palomino (2 nights if you have more time) 
Tayrona National park (3 nights)
Travel day:Tayrona -Santa Marta airport – Medellin

Medellin: 2 nights (as you will need to fly there)
Medellin – Bogota – London 

Day 1 : Night flight London-Bogota
Time to crunch your legs up to your ears and enjoy a 12 hour night flight to the capital of Colombia Bogota!

Day 2:
As we had limited time, we decided to get an inland flight straight from San Jose to Cartagena Flight: 6:29am arriving in Cartagena 7:54am 

Cartagena

What’s it like? Cartagena is a vibrant city on the Caribbean coast of Colombia. It’s known for its colorful colonial architecture and charming cobblestone streets. Spend your days exploring the famous Walled City and soaking in the beautiful murals in Getsemani. At night, learn to get them salsa snake hips moving at one of the many salsa dancing clubs! 

Day2 continued:
The airport is only 15 minutes from the city center and should be around 15,000 COP to maximum 20,000  (£3.50) depending where you’re staying and how much of a tourist you look like so maybe lay off on the “I love Colombia” Tshirt and paper map as the price might magically triple! 

Drop your bags and step back in time by wandering the colorful streets of tropical CARTAGENA both inside the walled city and most importantly Getsemani. Cartagena was historically one of Colonial Spain’s most important ports for gold and slaves in the 17th century. Stone fortresses and huge walls were built to protect the city from pesky pirates.

Outside the walled city is a charming and unique area called Getsemani, established as a residential area for freed slaves.
It is now home to an array of stunning murals which show different aspects of Getsemani’s history and culture, from the struggles of its former residents to the current vibrancy of life in the neighborhood.


This place had such a buzz with it’s colourful shop fronts, old school fruit carts, beautiful street art and talented buskers.
Exploring the streets of Getsemani, both in day and night is a great way to get a feel for the city’s history and culture. (Head to Plaza de la Trinidad as a centre spot for Getsemani, you can then wind in and out of all the little streets).


Book onto a free 2 hour bike tour to sight see and learn more about Cartagenas history: Sadly we tried to do this but it was closed on Sundays. Here is the number to book in advance (I think there’s a morning and afternoon time slots. I advise notttt to book the walking tour as we saw a group of about 40 people walk past at the pace of a snail on diazepans)

Despite Getsemani being my favourite place to stroll around I wouldn’t reccomend staying there due to noise. We stayed at Voila Getsemani right in the bloody thick of it… It was like trying to sleep on top of a Nottinghill carnival float. My bed was literally vibrating and despite wearing my noise cancelling headphones I could still here fog horns, yes forg horns until 4am. My husband slept like a baby.
If I was to do this trip again, I would stay at one of these glorious hotels within the walled city. You will most likely be tripling your daily step count so to have a hotel with a rooftop and pool is ideal:
Casa san agustin (Top choice, but spenny- fabulous food, lovely roof terrace, gorgeous interior design, pool on ground floor)
Hotel Movich Cartagena de Indias (lovely rooftop pool, excellent service and interior)
Casa Del Arzobispado Hotel – excellent value for money, has pool in courtyard, opposite an excellent coffee shop (Epoca Espresso Bar)
Bastión Luxury Hotel -(old school grand Italian feel with rooftop pool)

Other hotel options- 
Casa Pombo
Sofitel Legend Santa Clara Cartagena- rooftop bar: Bokkita
Bastión Luxury Hote
l -grand Italian feel
Charleston Santa Teresa Cartagena – fancy pants

Coffee shops to save onto your maps!

Epoca espresso bar

Epoca Espresso Bar (my personal fave spot)
Cafe La Manchuria
Arzobispado
Libertario Coffee Roasters Cartagena
Ábaco Libros y Café

Try a traditional colombian street food snack- Arepas! Deep fried corn cakes either plain or filled with egg inside.

Sloth watching! I spent 2 days in Costa rica looking for sloths and NADA…but made a shortcut across a park from Getsemani to the walled city and bumped into one. I’m assuming someone local took him from the jungle and plonked him there to help boost tourism?…so perhaps not the happiest story but he lives there now…city slicker sloth.

Around 6pm watch the sunset at one of these amazing locations:
Rooftop drinks-
Buena Vida Marisquería – Wonderful cocktails with live music and DJ
Bokkita- located on Sofitel Legends Santa Claras rooftop – quite plush, lovely sunken seating.
Mirador Gastro Bar – Gorgeous rooftop views
Alquimico Bar ROOFTOP DE OUF -(opens at 6pm) more of a bar/club- I didn’t rate the cocktails.
Up on the stone walls at Cafe del Mar.– Touristy-but-great outdoor lounge offers a casual bar with an unbeatable sunset view.
Or:
see it from the sea on a sunset catermeran…you can easily find and book online.

photo from Bokitas website- all other photos are my own

We had dinner at Casa San Agustín Alma and it did not disapoint. The food and atmosphere was superb.

If you have an steam left in the tank then lets Salsaaaaa- We were zonked so no hips were shook…however these were the places I had noted down!
La Movida
Café Havana
Alquimico Bar

Day 3:
We spent our second day in Cartagena getting more lost in the city and then relaxing at a rooftop pool at the Movich hotel. In order for my husband and I to have access to the rooftop pool we had to buy a day pass, which included an hours massage, breakfast and lunch. If you stay at one of the hotels I mentioned above then you wouldn’t need to pay a fee, just enjoy your hotels facilities!
Another option for the second day in Cartagena was to visit one of the Rosorio islands which are dotted with boutique hotels many used to be owned by cartel criminals such as Pablo Escobar. We were recommended the lively Blue Apple Beach at Tierra Bomba located a 30minute speed boat away. I don’t know if you can just go there for the day? Have a look online and see what you think!

lunch spots to pin:
Epoca Espresso Bar
Buena Vida Marisqueria – modern brunch spot with rooftop which opens at 4.
Pascal– modern brunch spot in Getsemani
la muleta– traditional Latin American set lunch
El Bololó | Bowls del Caribe
Beiyu cafe
Libertario Coffee Roasters

Sunset at one of the options mentioned on the day before notes!

Dinnner options:
Casa san agustin restuarant Alma
Carmen Cartagena
Mar y Zielo – fine dining!
Restaurante Candé – live music and traditional dancing
Jardin Santa clara restaurant
Gran Inka Cartagena
La Mulata (Seafood)

Cas Della Pasta
Bohemia Restaurante
El Burlador Gastrobar – tapas with occasional live music
El Boliche Cebichería
Maria
La Cevichería
This seafood restaurant is renowned for its fresh and delicious ceviche.
CANCHA RESTAURANTE CEVICHES SUSHI
Restaurante 1621 (restaurant within Sofitel legend hotel)

Day 4:
If we had more time I would’ve LOVED to visit:
Salento/ Coroca Valley: is a small town in the Colombian Andes. It’s known for its coffee plantations and stunning views of the surrounding mountains. Hike the Coroca Valley, home to the tallest palm trees. Stay: Hotel Kawa Mountain retreat.

Medellin is the second-largest city in Colombia once known for it’s associate with cocaine and crime but now known for its vibrant culture and nightlife.

However if you are on a 10 day trip like my husband and I, enjoy a breakfast and coffee in Cartagena then get a private transfer to Palomino taking a glorious 5hours!
Getting from Cartagena to palomino
we pre arranged the journey with a yellow cab driver, however the naughty sausage turned up in an unregistered car with blacked out windows. We didn’t feel like becoming hostages so had to found an alternative safer option.
To save you the hassle..here is the number of a fabulous reputable driver we ended up booking through Movich hotel. +573156213390
His name is Armando and doesn’t speak any English so best to translate on google first and whatsapp! We paid 900.000 cop which is roughly £150 plus a few extra quid for the tolls (bloody bargain considering its a 10hrs round trip for old mate Armando!) You can alternatively take a bus but I don’t know how safe that is?

Palomino

Palomino is a small, backpacker beach town on the Caribbean coast of Colombia known for its laid-back atmosphere. The beaches are ok, but definitely not the Caribbean postcards you may envision!…Instead the river is the star of the show here!

Palomino is definitely more of a backpacker area, however it’s DEFINITELY worth going to if you can stay at One Santuario.
Click here to see One Santuario

This eco lodge is set in the stunning hills of magical Sierra Nevada mountains, the habitat of several indigenous communities, who live here at one with nature, often completely isolated from the modern world.

One Santuario have their own herb garden, bio lab for 100% natural products, temazcal, cacao rituals and sound healing classes. There’s no set menu for Lunch and Dinner, just tell them if there’s anything you can’t eat and the talented chefs will cook up a three course extravaganza.

Once Armando drops you here you won’t want to leave! Enjoy dinner and a drinks around the firepit.


DAY 5
The most common activity whilst in Palomino is to go tubing, the magical river tends to be quite slow so you will be assigned to have someone guide/push you down. We decided it would be more enjoyable to be a little more active and paddle board instead which I’m so pleased we did.
You can book paddle boarding or tubing through One Santuario, ask to combine this activity with a visit to an indigenous Kogui community: Sewiaka for a unforgettable experience.

Day 6 (extension): if you have more time you can have another day here to enjoy the surroundings and book time in the Temazacal which involves sitting in a traditional sweat lodge for health and therapeutic benefits. Ceremonies usually last for two or more hours and are typically led by a sort of spiritual leader called a shaman.

Tips:
There’s no ATM in Palomino, so bring plenty of cash with you, as many places don’t accept cards. If you run out of money, there is a *bank* that you can take out money with a 10% fee on top you can show this to your motor taxi to take you there:
Palomino carrera sexta papa de buses bajando esta el bancolombia

After one last dinner at One Satuario prebook a taxi to take you 45 minutes away to your next destination TAYRONA!

I CANNOT reccomend this hotel enough: Villa Playa Tayrona.
The chefs are not just super talented but incredibly friendly too, the view is out of this world, there’s a gorgeous house cat who welcomes you home and they have a private beach which will forever be the most magical place I have ever watched a sunset. This was the true highlight for our trip to Colombia!
Click here to see Villa Playa Tayrona

Tayrona National Park

Tayrona National Park is a stunning nature reserve on the Caribbean coast of Colombia. It is named after the Tairona people, the indigenous people of this area. It’s also a stone’s throw away from the ancient ‘Lost City’ ruins of the Tairona people (which we now know is even older than Machu Pichu!). It’s known for its lush jungles, stunning beaches, and diverse wildlife.

DAY 7:
Wake up in PARADISE then spend day 6 hiking Tayronas National park!
Breakfast is served from 7am so I would advise to be there for then so you can get to the park early 🙂 Pre arrange with Villa Playa Tayronas host to help organise a lunch box which you can pick up after breakfast. This was such a great recommendation from them as the park doesn’t offer that much!

IMPOTANT INFO:
TAYRONA PARK CLOSING DATES 2023 This is for spiritual cleansing and to allow the eco-system to recover following peak tourist seasons.
From February 1 to February 15.
From June 1 to June 15.
From October 19 to November 2.

Documentation: All people who visit the Tayrona Natural Park without exception must present ID. It doesn’t need to be a physical copy a clear photo on your phone will be fine.
Vaccines: It is recommended to have the Yellow Fever vaccine for the Tayrona National Natural Park, at least 10 days before the trip. We weren’t asked for this proof but a friend from London was asked so better safe than sorry!

Entrances– There are TWO entrances to the park…. El Zaino and Calabazo.
I stronglyyyy advise to be taken to the CALABAZO entrance.

This is the lesser known entrance and therefore has nearly no queue to get in, you won’t have to watch a 20minute introductory video to the park (which you will have to do at El Zaino) and if you want to walk the loop of the park, this way round will be a LOT more enjoyable.
Before you get to the ticket desk there will be a man as Calabazo entrance next to the park map, if you fancy you can buy a motortaxi coupon from him which will take you from the payment desk of Calabazo to Pueblito which will take two hours off the walk (mostly uphill). If you opt for this then make sure you sit close to your driver and bear hug him (I praticularly gave him the Heimlich maneuver whilst he skillfully whizzed up the beautiful mountain!)
You can then start your hike from Pueblito all the way around to the Zaino entrance which takes around 4 hours unless you fancy walking to Playa Brava and back before the loop. We found this map SUPER helpful:

Why is Pueblito closed? Pueblito is home to an indigenous village that shouldn’t be exploited for tourism. In an effort to protect the tribespeople who reside there it has been permanently closed to the public.

Paying for Tayrona national park:
I can’t remember how much the motortaxi was but it was definetely super cheap. There’s also options of riding a horse, but I don’t know how well they are treated so would much rather koala hug a random man haha!
Entrance Fee was 68000 and you will also have to pay a 2500 COP insurance fee in case of any need to rescue you.

Opening hours of Calabazo: entrance 07:00-11:00
Exit hours from El Zaino: 14:00-17:00

Once you have spotted monkeys, toucans, and soaked in the beautiful trails of Tayrona national park wait for a bus to take you from Carnaveral to the El Zaino entrance where you can then get another short motor taxi back to the blissful hotel Villa Playa Tayrona. Motor taxi was around 7000 cop (£1.20)

Watch the most insane sunet from your private beach.
Ask your hotel host to show you how to walk there then make your way back to the hotel for a gorgeous dinner with the house cat!

DAY 8
DAY OF RELAXATION!
Book an hours massage at Villa Playa Tayrona (around £25!)
Enjoy the pool and read your book on the pontoon overlooking the river.
OBVIOUSLY go back to the beach for one last sunset in paradise.

DAY 9:
After a leisurely breakfast take a taxi to your last leg of the trip: This is where we went to Minca however if we were to do this trip again I would skip it and try a different area, perhaps Medellin or Salento for one or two nights.

Minca
Minca is a small mountain village in the Colombian Andes, which although not mentioned once in blogs online, is also home to VERY hungry mosquitos. No amount of deet will put these bastards off, they simply see it as an aggressive spicy flavoring like a human wasabi pea. We spent our one day there exploring the nearby waterfalls and although enjoyable it resulted in my legs looking like Mr Blobby. Head to Cascada Oido del Mundo, Minca Sierra Nevada instead of Marinka waterfalls.
You can also visit local coffee farms, and hike Los Pinos, a three-hour challenging hike that rewards you with panoramic views of the Caribbean sea and green mountains below.  We had specialty coffee at caficosta (feels a little less exotic when sounding so close to Costa coffee), lunch at Duni Cafe and unreal artsinal icecream at Waira.

DAY 10: Make your merry way home, with the most magical memories.

I really hope this blog has been helpful to your planning.
Give me a follow on @hayleyainsley and let me know if you’ve loved any of the spots! I also have 10 day itineraries for both Sri Lanka and Costa Rica too, so shoot me a message and I can send them over to you!

Thanks so much for reading, Bye byeeeee for now!





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